Types of Blood Lily (Haemanthus & Scadoxus)
For decades, all these plants were sold under the single genus name Haemanthus. Today, botanists have divided them into two distinct groups:
- Haemanthus: Typically have thick, evergreen leaves and white or pink brush-like flowers.
- Scadoxus: Form a false stem with thinner leaves and produce spectacular red, spherical “fireball” flowers.
Despite the scientific name change, nurseries and houseplant enthusiasts still widely refer to both groups simply as the Blood Lily or Paintbrush Lily. Here are the most popular varieties adapted for indoor living:
White Paintbrush (Haemanthus albiflos)
This is the most popular true Haemanthus kept as a houseplant. It is incredibly drought-tolerant and easy to care for. The plant features long, broad, tongue-shaped green leaves. From its center emerges a thick stalk topped with a dense, white, brush-like flower head tipped with bright yellow-orange anthers.
Linden’s Blood Lily (Haemanthus lindenii)
This variety adapts very well to indoor life. It produces large green leaves with deeply grooved, distinct veins. It boasts tall flower stalks that can reach up to 20 inches (50 cm), ending in an umbrella-shaped flower cluster up to 8 inches (20 cm) wide. The bloom colors range from pale pink to rich red.
April Fool Lily (Haemanthus coccineus)
Known for its striking looks, this plant is best for spacious rooms. The thick, elongated leaves can grow between 15 and 20 inches (40 to 50 cm) long. Its green-and-brown mottled stalks support brilliant red brush-like flowers, which contrast beautifully with large, bright yellow anthers.
Snow White (Haemanthus candidus)
A very close relative of the White Paintbrush (H. albiflos), it looks nearly identical and requires the exact same care routine. The primary way to tell them apart is by the fine, downy fuzz covering the flower stalks and the underside of its leaves.
Tiger Blood Lily (Haemanthus tigrinus)
This striking hybrid was bred by crossing several species. Its defining feature is the dark green leaves speckled with prominent brown spots—earning it the “tiger” moniker. Though the flower stalks are relatively short, the large red flowers are just as impressive as those on taller varieties.
Paintbrush Lily / Snake Lily (Scadoxus puniceus)
Often considered challenging for beginners. However, if given the right light and watering schedule, it thrives and produces gorgeous wavy-edged foliage. It blooms less frequently indoors, but when it does, the dramatic dark-red flowers can span up to 4 inches (10 cm) across.
Katherine’s Blood Lily (Scadoxus multiflorus subsp. katherinae)
The most highly sought-after red variety for indoor growing. It features thin, long, vibrant green leaves with a wavy texture. Because of its elegant, tropical appearance, it makes a fantastic statement piece. It blooms with magnificent, spherical, bright red flower heads.
Fireball Lily (Scadoxus multiflorus)
Famous for its massive, globe-like blooms that look like exploding fireworks. It has slightly elongated, dense leaves with distinctly dark veins that add to its decorative value. The long flower stalks proudly support huge, spiky flowers in shades of intense pink or deep scarlet red.
Indoor Care Guide
Despite their hardy nature, experts recommend striving to create the ideal conditions for your Blood Lily. With the right environment, it will grow vigorously and reward you with spectacular blooms year after year.
Soil Requirements
Choosing the right potting mix is often the trickiest part of growing a Blood Lily, as different species slightly vary in their preferences. However, because they grow from bulbs (or fleshy rhizomes), the universal rule is that the soil must be extremely well-draining.
You can start with one of two highly recommended universal mixes. The first is a custom blend of potting soil, leaf mold, perlite (or zeolite granules), and compost/humus in a 2:1:1:1 ratio. This is a popular recipe among houseplant enthusiasts. Alternatively, for a simpler approach, you can mix a high-quality commercial Cactus & Succulent soil with extra perlite, coarse sand, or pumice.
In addition to the right soil, you must ensure your pot has drainage holes. Adding a layer of LECA (clay pebbles) or gravel at the bottom is highly recommended. Without proper drainage, the risk of deadly root rot increases dramatically.
Light Requirements
Originating from the sunny climates of Southern Africa, it is no surprise that the Blood Lily loves light. Without adequate lighting, the plant quickly loses its attractive appearance and fails to bloom. However, it is crucial to remember that direct, harsh afternoon sunlight—especially through a window—can scorch the leaves and cause severe sunburns.
Temperature Preferences
The Blood Lily is relatively unfussy when it comes to temperature. It can tolerate a range of climates, from warm rooms to cooler spaces. During its active growing and blooming season, the ideal temperature is between 66°F and 73°F (19–23°C). Minor fluctuations are perfectly fine. You can even move the potted plant to a patio or balcony during the summer months.
However, cold drafts are detrimental to the Blood Lily, so keep it well away from AC vents and drafty windows.
During the colder months, the Blood Lily requires a cooler rest period. This drop in temperature slows its growth and triggers a necessary dormancy phase. Ideally, keep it in a room that stays around 60°F to 63°F (16–17°C) during the winter. The absolute minimum temperature it can survive is 50°F to 54°F (10–12°C), depending on the specific species.
Care Routines
Watering
Indoor Blood Lily varieties prefer moderate amounts of water. You should only water them after the top layer (about 1-2 inches) of the soil feels completely dry to the touch. Ignoring this rule will almost certainly lead to bulb and root rot.
The frequency of watering depends entirely on your room’s temperature. During hot summer days, the soil dries out faster, requiring more frequent watering (usually every 3 to 6 days). In the winter, especially when the plant is dormant, you might only need to water it lightly once every week or two.
Feeding and Fertilizing
Haemanthus (and related Blood Lily types) is only “picky” when it comes to choosing the right fertilizer. This plant does not tolerate organic-based feeds well, so it’s better to stick with mineral fertilizers. Use a low-strength (diluted) solution, because overfertilizing can easily harm the bulb and roots. Also, choose formulas where phosphorus and potassium are the key nutrients (avoid high-nitrogen mixes, which can push leaf growth at the expense of blooms).
For fertilizing, you can use products labeled for bulbs or flowering houseplants. During active growth and up until the plant begins forming flower buds, feed every 10–15 days. After buds appear, you can reduce feeding to a minimum.
In some cases, you can skip fertilizing altogether—especially if the plant is healthy, grows steadily, and is potted in fresh, nutrient-rich soil.
Repotting
Haemanthus can grow without repotting for about 5 years. After that, it’s recommended to move it into fresh soil, while also separating the “pups” (baby bulbs) that have formed around the main bulb. These offsets can be used to grow new plants.
The best time to repot is from late winter through mid-spring. March is often ideal. This is when the plant enters active growth, and it typically re-roots quickly after transplanting.
When moving the bulb to a new pot, position it so that most of the bulb remains above the soil surface. This gives the plant the “freedom” it prefers and helps reduce the risk of rot. If you want a fuller display, you can plant up to 5 bulbs in one pot—this won’t harm them and can make the container look more impressive once the plants mature.
Managing Diseases and Pests
For example, if watering is insufficient, the leaves may look pale and bud formation can stop. If light is lacking, the plant also loses its decorative appeal.
Among many potential pests, the main threats to Haemanthus indoors are typically scale insects and spider mites. They damage the plant, worsen its appearance, and make it more vulnerable to disease. Spider mites feed on leaf sap, gradually destroying the green tissue and potentially killing the plant if left untreated.
Control pests using appropriate fungicides and insecticides. It’s important to rotate products, because spider mites can become resistant to the same treatment over time. Scale insects also harm the leaves. Sprays often don’t work well on mature scale, so the most effective solution is usually to remove them manually.
Reader Photos
FAQ
The White Paintbrush (Haemanthus albiflos) is by far the most popular choice for home growers. It is the most attractive and the easiest to care for — a perfect option for both beginners and experienced plant lovers.
During spring and summer, the best spot is an East- or West-facing windowsill where the plant gets bright but indirect light. If temperatures stay above 60°F (15°C) at night, you can also move the pot outdoors to a shaded patio or balcony. Just make sure to bring it back inside before the first frost.
It is best to use rainwater or filtered water that has been left sitting at room temperature for 24–48 hours. If you use tap water, letting it sit allows the chlorine to dissipate, which is gentler on the bulb.
Avoid any organic-based fertilizers. Stick to diluted mineral fertilizers with a high phosphorus and potassium content, and a low nitrogen ratio. In the US, look for products labeled for bulbs or flowering plants, such as "Bulb Booster" type formulas.
Once every 4–5 years is sufficient. When repotting, always separate the baby bulb offsets (pups) from the mother bulb and plant them separately to grow new plants.
Spider mites are the most common and dangerous pest. They feed on the sap inside the leaves, gradually destroying the plant. Rotate between different insecticide and miticide sprays to prevent the mites from building resistance.
Yes. Haemanthus and Scadoxus contain toxic alkaloids (lycorine) and are considered toxic to cats, dogs, and humans if ingested. Symptoms of poisoning can include vomiting, diarrhea, and drooling. Always keep the plant out of reach of pets and small children. In case of accidental ingestion, contact the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center at (888) 426-4435 or call Poison Control at 1-800-222-1222.
The most common reasons are: insufficient light, skipping the winter rest period (it needs a cool, 60–63°F / 16–17°C dormancy to set buds), overfertilizing with nitrogen, or repotting too frequently. Blood Lilies actually bloom better when slightly root-bound, so resist the urge to repot too often.
Blood Lily bulbs (Haemanthus albiflos and Scadoxus multiflorus) are available from specialty bulb retailers such as Brent and Becky's Bulbs, White Flower Farm, and Amazon. They are less commonly found at big-box stores like Home Depot or Lowe's, so ordering online is usually the most reliable option.
