Description and types
Caladium was first described in 1800 by the French botanist Étienne Pierre Ventenat. The plant reached him from the islands of the Malay Archipelago. Local tribal communities cultivated caladium as a vegetable crop in small island gardens and extracted starch from it.
They gave the plant the name heladi, which roughly translates as “a plant with edible roots.” Growers value caladium for its beautiful leaves, often compared to elephant ears. Some people also call it “Heart of Jesus” and “Angel Wings.” It’s not only beautiful, but also potentially dangerous to humans—handle it with gloves to avoid irritation to skin and mucous membranes.
Caladiums develop unevenly. The first leaf may take up to 2 weeks to unfurl, after which the plant begins to leaf out much more actively. The leaves have a thin skin, which makes them lightweight and slightly translucent. Most are heart-shaped, but some species have elongated narrow or rounded leaves. No matter the shape, the tips are strongly pointed. The width is almost always about half the length.
Caladium leaves are exceptionally beautiful and come in a wide range of colors. The most common are yellow, green, purple, and white. Leaves grow from the base; as the plant fills out, it forms rosettes that can reach up to about 20 in (50 cm) across. After 3–4 leaves appear, the plant produces an inflorescence shaped like a spadix. It consists of male and female flowers wrapped in a pointed “spathe,” which often has coloring similar to the foliage.
Caladium blooms for 4–5 weeks. After flowering, orange-red berries appear in place of the inflorescences. They are not edible. The caladium genus includes about 15 species. The most popular include:
Humboldt. This plant has deep green leaves with silver stripes on the upper surface. The stripes narrow as they extend from the center of the leaf toward the edges. The flowers of this species resemble candles. The blooming period occurs in spring.
Schomburgk. A plant with oval leaves. The upper surface has a silvery-red tone with clearly visible green veins. There are two ornamental subtypes: Venosum and Erythraeum. Venosum has green oval leaves with a red edge; the central vein is also red, and the side veins are yellow. Erythraeum has dark red foliage with silvery patterns running along the veins.
Bicolor. A plant with narrow, arrow-shaped leaves and vivid red foliage. Several popular hybrids were bred from it: ‘Rosalie’, ‘Pink Beauty’, ‘Florida Cardinal’, ‘Red Flash’, and ‘White Christmas’. ‘Rosalie’ has red leaves with a green edge; ‘Pink Beauty’ has a pink center with green margins; ‘Florida Cardinal’ is raspberry-colored with a wide, bright green border; ‘Red Flash’ is red with a bright raspberry stripe; ‘White Christmas’ is silvery with dark green striping.
Care Guide
Placement and Lighting
Indoors, caladiums should be kept away from other plants, cold drafts, and AC vents. They do well placed deeper inside a room. They thrive in partial shade and bright, indirect light. Varieties with highly contrasting foliage patterns typically require slightly more light to maintain their vivid colors. If exposed to direct sunlight, the plant’s delicate leaves will scorch almost instantly. If you want to place your caladiums on a windowsill, choose only an east- or west-facing window.
Soil Requirements
The optimal potting mix for caladiums is a well-draining aroid mix. To make your own, blend peat moss, perlite or coarse sand, worm castings, and a bit of wood ash. Use deep pots for planting, and plant one tuber per container. Drainage material (like perlite or pebbles) should make up about one-third of the pot’s volume. Always ensure your potting mix is sterile and pest-free before planting.
Temperature
The room temperature for a caladium must be maintained above 68°F (20°C). In winter, during dormancy, it can drop slightly to 65°F (18°C). The most favorable range for active growth is 72–77°F (22–25°C). Avoid sudden temperature drops and do not expose the plant to extreme heat.
Humidity and Watering
These plants cannot tolerate waterlogged soil, but they absolutely love high ambient humidity. Water them frequently but in moderate amounts. The top layer of soil in the pots should partially dry out between waterings. If the soil becomes excessively dry, the caladium will stop growing. Once the leaves drop for dormancy, stop watering entirely. During the active growing season, you can mist the leaves frequently.
Instead of top-watering, you can pour water directly into the saucer.
Fertilizer
You only need to fertilize the plant during its active growing season, about twice a month. It’s best to use two types of fertilizer: a balanced organic-mineral blend and a specialized fertilizer for aroids. Apply the first foliar feeding (spraying diluted fertilizer on leaves) shortly after sprouts appear. Once the plant has more than 5 leaves, you can switch entirely to foliar feeding.
Propagation
Dust any cut surfaces on the tubers with wood ash. Plant the tubers individually into pots filled with a soft, slightly moist potting mix. Much less commonly, caladiums can be propagated by stem cuttings. These are cut at the very base and rooted in warm water. They are transplanted into soil only after tiny tubers have formed. Growing caladiums from seeds often yields poor results. Their germination rate depends heavily on when the seeds were harvested and how they were stored. Furthermore, the seedlings that do emerge are notoriously difficult to raise.
They require specific conditions:
- High ambient humidity;
- Lightly, consistently moist soil;
- Stable temperatures.
Diseases and Pests
The most common diseases and issues affecting the plant are listed below:
- Fusarium and soft rot. These diseases affect the plant’s tubers. Cut away the rot using a sterilized garden knife, then dust the cut areas with a powdered fungicide.
- Mold and fungal issues. These appear on the leaves due to overwatering and drafts. Move the affected plant to a draft-free location, reduce watering frequency, and remove the damaged areas.
- Leaf curling. This problem occurs due to underwatering and high air temperatures. To fix it, simply increase your watering frequency.
- Brown leaf edges. These appear when the plant is exposed to cold temperatures.
- Pale leaves. The plant’s colors will look faded and washed out if it doesn’t get enough light.
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FAQ
Only remove leaves that are completely dry, yellow, or brown. Use clean scissors and cut the leaf stem close to the soil line; don’t trim healthy green leaves.
Most often, smaller leaves mean the plant isn’t getting enough bright, indirect light—move it to a brighter spot (still out of direct sun). It can also happen if the plant is underfed during active growth or if the soil dries too much between waterings.
Around 70% relative humidity is often considered ideal (roughly 60–80% works well in many homes). Caladiums generally prefer higher humidity than many common houseplants.
Instead of a fixed volume, water until excess runs out of the drainage holes, then empty the saucer. As a rough reference, a mature plant in active growth may take up to about 2 cups (16–17 fl oz / 0.5 L) per watering, but the real amount depends on pot size, soil mix, and indoor heat/AC.
Dormancy typically begins in late fall as the plant gradually drops its leaves; active growth usually resumes in early spring (often around March). Indoors, timing can shift depending on light and temperature.
No—caladium is considered toxic if chewed or swallowed and can also irritate skin and mucous membranes. Keep it out of reach and wear gloves if you have sensitive skin.
Leaf curl most commonly happens from underwatering combined with warm, dry air. Check soil moisture, raise humidity, and keep the plant away from heating vents and AC drafts.
Brown edges can be caused by cold drafts, low humidity, or inconsistent watering. Move the plant to a warmer, draft-free area and aim for steady moisture (not soggy soil).
Yes, but it’s uncommon as a houseplant. Most people grow caladium primarily for its foliage.
The most common indoor pests are spider mites and mealybugs. If you notice sticky residue, white “cottony” clusters, or fine webbing, isolate the plant and treat with an appropriate insecticidal product.
