Types of Indoor Chrysanthemums
Because of space constraints, the number of varieties that thrive indoors is fairly limited. However, there are still plenty of beautiful options to choose from. In the US, these are typically sold as “Florist Mums” or “Pot Mums.”
Popular types of chrysanthemums suitable for the home:
Cushion Mums (Domed Mums). This unique type is one of the most popular for indoor use. They grow in a naturally compact, rounded mound (usually staying under 12 inches tall), making them perfect for small pots. Their main feature is abundant blooming, completely covering the foliage with medium-sized flowers in shades of pink, purple, or white.
Daisy Mums (Single Mums). These chrysanthemums stand out for their heavy blooming, which makes them a windowsill favorite. The flowers have a classic daisy-like appearance with a distinct yellow center surrounded by white or colored petals. The bush rarely exceeds 14 inches in height.
Pompon Mums. This variety grows to about 16 inches tall. The bush has a rounded shape, typically no wider than 20 inches. Its main attraction is the small, fully double, globe-shaped flowers that look like little colorful pompoms. They are quite striking and long-lasting.
Button Mums. This type will appeal to lovers of miniature plants. At the peak of its development, this mum has a height of just 10 inches and a diameter of no more than 16 inches. This minimalism is also reflected in its tiny, button-like flowers, which are usually less than an inch across.
Anemone Mums. This chrysanthemum variety does beautifully indoors. The plant reaches a height of 14 inches and doesn’t spread out too aggressively. The flowers are relatively large (up to 2 inches in diameter) and feature a raised, cushion-like center surrounded by shorter petals, often in contrasting colors.
Spider Mums. This striking indoor chrysanthemum grows up to 16 inches tall. It is characterized by its exotic look, featuring long, tubular petals that hook or curl at the ends. While the blooms might be fewer in number compared to cushion mums, their unique spidery appearance in shades of yellow, white, or purple makes them a stunning centerpiece.
Growing Conditions
Soil
It is crucial to plant mums in a carefully selected potting mix. The ideal soil should be a well-draining, rich blend. A standard high-quality indoor potting mix amended with a bit of perlite and compost works perfectly. You can also add a small amount of slow-release organic fertilizer to enrich the soil with essential nutrients and ensure abundant blooming.
Temperature
To keep your chrysanthemum healthy and blooming heavily, you need to pay attention to the ambient temperature. Finding the “golden mean” is best, avoiding places that are excessively hot or very cold. In the summer, the optimal temperature is around 72°F (22°C). Minor fluctuations of 4-5 degrees are acceptable. In transitional seasons (spring, fall), the bushes will feel comfortable at temperatures of 60-65°F (15-18°C).
Drafts are highly undesirable. In winter, the chrysanthemum enters a dormant phase, so it tolerates much lower temperatures well. To maintain its natural life cycles, placing it in a cool spot around 40-45°F (4-7°C) is ideal.
Lighting
For mums to feel comfortable, they must receive plenty of light. However, it’s important to remember that harsh, direct afternoon sunlight can scorch them. Because of this, placing pots directly in hot, unobstructed South-facing windows isn’t recommended, while North-facing windows won’t provide enough light. Bright, indirect light from an East or West-facing window is usually best.
During the hottest time of the year, indoor chrysanthemums are best placed in well-ventilated areas. An ideal option would be a balcony, covered porch, or patio where the flower will receive bright but filtered sunlight.
Care Rules
Watering
The chrysanthemum is a moisture-loving plant, so proper watering is crucial. The main goal for plant owners is to maintain an optimal level of soil moisture—keep it consistently moist but never soggy. Typically, you should water a potted mum 2-3 times a week. Watering too infrequently will lead to dry soil and a wilting plant, while excessively frequent watering will cause root rot. Always check the top inch of the soil; if it feels dry, it’s time to water.
Repotting
The repotting process is an essential part of any plant’s life, and the chrysanthemum is no exception. Care for a young, growing flower requires annual repotting into a larger container. Once the plant reaches maturity (stops actively growing), this should be done about once every three years.
In exceptional cases (for example, if the soil quality has degraded), indoor chrysanthemums can be repotted more often. However, it’s important to provide extra nutrients afterward so the flower can better recover from the stress.
Feeding
Chrysanthemums cannot grow properly without fertilizer. Therefore, it’s important to “feed” the plants with special formulas in a timely manner. Most often, owners use a balanced liquid houseplant fertilizer or one with a slightly higher dose of phosphorus and potassium (like a bloom-boosting fertilizer). It is these nutrients that stimulate growth and help the mum bloom better.
Alternatively, you can use any organic liquid solution with a low concentration of the main nutrients.
Feeding chrysanthemums is typically done every 8-10 days during the growing season. This process should continue until the first buds start to show color. After that, it’s recommended to stop fertilizing while it blooms.
After-Bloom Care
The blooming process concludes the chrysanthemum’s annual cycle. After this, it needs to be transitioned out of its active state. To do this, carefully cut back the stems to about 2-3 inches above the soil line. It’s also recommended to move the pot to a cool place where the plant can safely overwinter in dormancy. An ideal spot would be an unheated basement or a cool, enclosed porch with temperatures just above freezing.
Pest and Disease Control
Common chrysanthemum diseases:
Powdery Mildew. This is a white fungus that covers the leaves and branches of the plant like a dusting of flour. Over time, this coating becomes denser, ruining the mum’s appearance and negatively impacting its health. To combat the disease, it’s recommended to treat the leaves and stems with a suitable fungicide or Neem oil.
Septoria Leaf Spot. This disease appears as pale brown patches on the surface of the leaves, which gradually increase in size and turn into dark, circular spots. Affected leaves quickly die off, so treatment should be prompt. You can manage this by removing infected leaves, improving air circulation, and treating the plant with a copper-based fungicide.
Botrytis Blight (Gray Mold). This fungal disease is highly dangerous for chrysanthemums. It’s difficult to get rid of, so taking preventative measures (like not getting the leaves wet when watering) is key. If the plant does get infected, a fuzzy gray mold will appear on the leaves and buds. Treating it requires removing infected parts and applying a broad-spectrum fungicide.
If you spot any disease on a chrysanthemum, it should be isolated from other plants immediately. If you skip this step, the problem could spread to all your indoor greenery.
Besides diseases, chrysanthemums are also threatened by various pests. Most often, the plant is attacked by aphids, spider mites, thrips, and whiteflies. All these insects feed on the plant’s sap, causing irreversible damage if left unchecked. You can get rid of pests by washing them off with a strong spray of water and treating the plant with insecticidal soap or Neem oil.
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Frequently Asked Questions
Most often, the reason for a lack of blooms is improper growing conditions or an inconsistent care routine. Specifically, a lack of sufficient bright light or failing to keep the soil evenly moist can cause the plant to drop its buds before they open.
A sick chrysanthemum will gradually start to look wilted, dull, or generally unhealthy. Keep a close eye on the leaves: early warning signs usually include discolored brown or black spots, yellowing foliage, or a powdery/fuzzy fungal coating on the stems and leaves.
Mums can be easily propagated by taking stem cuttings, dividing the root ball (especially if multiple plants are potted together), or by growing them from seed. For indoor mums, rooting stem cuttings is the most popular and successful method.
The best options are compact varieties like Cushion Mums, Daisy Mums, or miniature Button Mums. They are perfectly adapted to growing in small containers indoors, so you won't have major issues with them outgrowing your windowsill.
It’s best to water your chrysanthemums with room-temperature filtered water, collected rainwater, or tap water that has been left out overnight. Pro tip: Always try to water the soil directly at the base of the plant (or bottom-water them) to keep the leaves dry and prevent fungal issues
Using the wrong amount can either reduce its effectiveness or lead to a toxic buildup of salts in the soil (fertilizer burn). Under-fertilizing means your plant won't have the energy to bloom, while over-fertilizing will damage the roots. In both cases, the plant will suffer, and its appearance will quickly decline.
