What Kind of Water to Use
In nature, orchids get their necessary moisture from the earth and rain. When caring for them at home, you have a few good water options:
Rainwater. It is naturally rich in sulfur, which helps form the amino acids essential for plant growth and development. You can buy a rain barrel or use simple household containers to collect it.
Distilled Water. It lacks the high acidity that can harm plants and is easy to find at any grocery store or pharmacy. The only downside is that with daily watering, it can wash essential trace elements out of the potting medium over time.
Aged Water. If you fill a watering can and let it sit for 24 hours, the alkalinity drops significantly, which is vital for exotic plants. Letting tap water sit also allows the chlorine to evaporate.
The water you use should be free of impurities. The ideal temperature is lukewarm, around 68°F–86°F (20°C–30°C).. You should only water when the potting mix begins to dry out. How long that takes depends not just on the water, but on the substrate. A mix of fir bark, LECA (expanded clay pebbles), or small gravel ensures water will not pool, allowing excess moisture to evaporate.
Inexperienced growers often overwater their orchids, mistakenly believing the plant is constantly thirsty. Watering too frequently is just as deadly to the plant as underwatering.
When to Water
The ideal conditions for an orchid include 60-80% ambient humidity and a substrate temperature of 68°F–80°F (20°C–27°C). The pot must have drainage holes to allow excess moisture to escape. Your orchid should always be in an inner plastic pot with drainage holes. Never plant an orchid directly into a solid glass or ceramic cachepot without holes, as this will inevitably lead to root rot.
If your orchid is growing in an open system (like a slatted wooden basket or mounted on bark), it requires more frequent watering because the roots are exposed to the air and dry out much faster.
The potting medium must dry out between waterings. You can tell it is time to water when:
- The pot feels significantly lighter when you lift it.
- There are no visible water droplets on the roots or soil, and no condensation on the inside of the pot.
- The root color changes from a vibrant green to a dull gray or silvery white (this is why keeping orchids in clear plastic pots is so helpful).
- A wooden skewer carefully inserted into the root ball comes out completely dry.
Watering Frequency
The frequency of watering depends heavily on the season. During winter, when indoor heating systems dry out the air, you may actually need to water more frequently depending on your home’s humidity. Watering schedules also shift based on the plant’s growth phase.
Table: Orchid Watering Needs by Growth Phase
| Young Plant (Seedling/Keiki) | Pre-Bloom (Spiking) | Early Blooming | Active Blooming |
| Frequent watering, usually once a week. | Moderate watering; just enough to keep the roots hydrated and support the growing flower spike. | Frequent watering. Monitor the potting medium closely to ensure it is not compacting, which blocks moisture and airflow. | Frequent watering, at least once a week. Ensure the substrate dries out well between waterings, as excess moisture can still cause rot even while blooming. |
You must also monitor the ambient humidity in your room. It should ideally not drop below 60%. Purchasing a room humidifier is a great way to maintain this.
Morning or Evening?
It is always best to water your orchids in the morning. This allows any excess moisture resting on the plant’s leaves or in the crown to evaporate completely before nightfall, preventing crown rot.
Watering Methods
The Pour-Through Method (Flushing)
For this method, you will need a watering can with a long, narrow spout, holding at least 1 quart (about 1 liter) of water. Slowly pour water over the potting medium. Watch the drainage holes; as soon as water flows freely from the bottom, stop pouring. Wait 5 minutes, and repeat the process. It is ideal to repeat this 3 to 4 times per watering session. This ensures the bark and roots fully absorb the moisture while keeping the leaves and flowers completely dry.
It is best to place the orchid in the sink before you begin. This prevents a watery mess and saves you from extra cleanup. If water accidentally splashes onto the leaves, be sure to gently dab it dry with a paper towel.
The Soaking Method
This is often considered the most effective method for orchids potted in bark. It involves placing the orchid’s inner plastic pot into a slightly larger outer container (a cachepot) that does not have drainage holes. The outer container only needs to be about 4 inches (10 cm) wider than the inner pot. Pour room-temperature water into the outer container until it reaches about halfway up the side of the orchid’s pot. Never submerge the pot entirely, as water must not reach the base of the plant’s leaves (the crown).
Leave the pot in this water bath for no more than 15 minutes. You can tell it is finished soaking by looking at the roots—they should have plumped up and turned a solid, vibrant green.
After removing the orchid from the water bath, let it sit over the sink for a few minutes so all excess moisture can drain away completely before returning it to its decorative pot.
Misting the Roots
This method is necessary for plants whose exposed aerial roots dry out frequently, changing color to a light, silvery-gray. Generously spray these roots using a fine-mist spray bottle, keeping a distance of 4 to 6 inches (10-15 cm). Never aim the spray bottle directly at the leaves or the crown (the base) of the plant!
The Warm Shower Method
Place the orchid pot in the sink or bathtub and gently rinse it with warm water (around 104°F or 40°C). This shower mimics the warm tropical rains of the orchid’s natural habitat. After the shower, let all excess moisture drain completely.
Watering Needs of Popular Orchid Varieties
Dendrobium
Water infrequently, only when the surface of the potting medium is completely dry. Reduce the watering frequency when the plant is preparing to bloom. Dendrobiums do not like being misted, as this can cause dark spots on the leaves. Water around the inner perimeter of the pot using a watering can. Let the water drain through, then repeat the process once more.
Paphiopedilum (Lady’s Slipper)
Unlike the Dendrobium, this variety loves water and needs to be watered more frequently. Watering 1 to 2 times a week is optimal. You can use either the pour-through method or the soaking method. Even though it loves water, you must let all excess moisture drain to prevent root rot. Pay special attention to removing any water that accumulates in the leaf axils.
Cambria
Finding the right balance is key for this orchid—overwatering will hinder blooming, while underwatering will cause the leaves to wrinkle and look like corrugated cardboard. The best approach is the soaking method. Ensure the water does not flood the top of the substrate, and always make sure the roots are never left sitting in standing water.
During the active growing season, when new pseudobulbs are forming, you will need to water more frequently.
Common Watering Mistakes
- Leaving water in the leaf axils or crown. If water gets trapped here, immediately dry it out using a tissue, paper towel, or a cotton swab.
- Careless misting. Do not allow misting water to accumulate on the leaves or the base of the orchid.
- Placing the plant in direct sunlight immediately after watering. Water droplets act like tiny magnifying glasses and can cause severe leaf burn.
- Using the same soaking water for multiple plants. If one orchid has a fungal or bacterial infection, sharing water will quickly spread the disease to the others.
- Rushing the draining process. Not allowing enough time for excess liquid to drain completely is dangerous for orchids.
- Watering on a strict calendar schedule. Watering too rarely or too often is equally bad: the plant will either dry up and die or become waterlogged and rot. Always check the roots and potting medium first.
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FAQ: Your Questions Answered
To increase the oxygen levels in your water—which orchid roots love—simply pour the water back and forth between two pitchers or buckets several times right before you water. This simple aeration process helps replicate the oxygen-rich rainwater orchids get in the wild.
If your local water supply is very hard (high in calcium and magnesium minerals), you can soften it slightly by adding a tiny amount of oxalic acid. Use about 1/8 of a teaspoon per 1.3 gallons (5 liters) of water. Alternatively, switching to rainwater, distilled water, or reverse osmosis (RO) water mixed with a specialized orchid fertilizer is the safest long-term solution.
Yes, you can. Boiling water is an effective way to help dissipate chlorine and chloramine found in municipal tap water. Just make absolutely sure the water has cooled down to room temperature—around 68°F to 77°F (20°C to 25°C)—before letting it touch your plant's roots, or you risk severely burning them.
While the "ice cube method" (placing 3 ice cubes on the potting media once a week) is heavily marketed in the US for beginners, most serious orchid growers advise against it. Orchids are tropical plants, and freezing cold water shocking their roots can cause long-term damage or stunt their growth. It is much better to water thoroughly with lukewarm water using the soaking or pour-through methods described above.
Yes. While your orchid is actively pushing out a flower spike or blooming, it requires slightly more frequent watering to support the flowers. However, you must be incredibly careful not to get any water directly on the delicate blooms, as this can cause them to rot or drop prematurely (a condition known as bud blast).
Wrinkled, leathery leaves are a classic sign of dehydration. However, this doesn't always mean you are underwatering. If you overwatered previously and the roots rotted away, the plant can no longer take up moisture, resulting in dehydrated leaves. Always check the root system first before deciding to increase your watering frequency.
